Prague to Berlin July 5 - 9

Didn't realize that it had been so long since we posted until I started hearing grumblings from some of the folks following this blog.  So, we will catch everyone up today. 

We went to Prague which is one of our favorite cities.  Prague has been the crossroad of Europe for centuries.  As you know, Prague was part of Czechoslovakia and was part of the Holy Roman Empire for centuries.  It fell under Hapsburg rule after the 30 Years War (Protestants vs. Catholics 1618 - 1648).  The Protestants were wiped out here and the Cathloic Habsburgs ruled for 300 more years ending at the end of WWI in 1918. 

Prague has about 1.2 million residents and we think that they were all on the streets while we were there.  It was a holiday so there were tons to tourists in the streets.  Since Prague was never bombed or invaded in WWI or WWII, it has the best preserved Old Town of any large city in Europe. This area dates from the 11th Century, i.e. 1090s.  It is a place simply to walk, look and marvel at the beauty of what surrounds you.  The architecture is really beyond description.  Here are some street scenes.

The second day in Prague, we had a private tour of the Prague Castle Complex.  The castle complex sets high on a hill overlooking the city and the Vitava River.  It was founded in the 9th Centruy by Prince Borivoj and grew into a massive arrangement of royal residences, gardens and churches.  It covers about 6 sq miles.  We started with the Monastery.  We were very excited that we were able to enter the library and take pictures since we were on a private tour. 

We went to St Vitus' Cathedral which dates from the 10th Century.  The Gothic Cathedral was added circa 1340.  The stain glass windows are incredible along with the soaring heighth of the vaulted ceiling.

Of course, we love some of the signs that we see on the streets such as the one below.

We all know that castles don't run on their own and they needs lots of worker bees.  Here are some of the houses of the worker bees.  Some of them were so small that the family and to split their sleeping into shifts so that everyone could lay down to sleep.

Of course, we saw the changing of the guards.  What surprised us was that the old guard stays outside while the new guard goes into the guardhouse.  Before going in, the old guard gives the new guard his sunglasses and the new guard goes inside to put them on.  I would think that if you have enough money for a castle and guards, you could afford a couple more pairs of sunglasses!

We did go on a boat ride down the Vltava River and had a horse drawn carriage ride through old town.  



 

The next day we were off to the Jewish quarter.  This is the most important and, even through most of it has disappeared, the best preserved Jewish Ghetto in Europe.  For centuries, Prague's Jews (victims of oppressive laws and discrimination) survived here.  When Emperor Joseph relaxed anti-Jewish practices, the area was named "Josefou" to honor him.  Later, much of the Old Ghetto was razed.  Of Prague's 120,000 Jews, only 10,000 survived the Holocaust.  Only a few thousand Jews remain in Prague today.  Odd but true, the buildings that remain here are thanks to Hitler.  He ordered them preserved intending them to later be part of a museum of "The Extinct Race."

We toured the Pinkas Synagogue which was founded in 1479.  The names of 77,297 Czech Jews sent to the gas chambers are inscribed on the walls.  This is very moving but we could not take pictures.  Outside the synagogue is the cemetary.  This is a remarkable and unforgettable site.  For 300 years, this was the only place Prague's Jews could be buried so they are buried 12 layers deep with 100,000 graves in all.  12,000 gravesites remain.  The last burial was in 1787.

Now we are off to Berlin with a stop in Terezin or Theresienstadt in German.  This town was founded in 1870 as a fortified town named for Empress Maria Theresa.  After the takeover of Czechslovakia by Germany, the nazis evacuated the town's 3,700 non-Jewish residents and created a "Jewish town."  This town was featured in the propaganda film "Hilter Gives a City of the Jews".  Theresienstadt became known as the "Gilded Ghetto" where many higher-class, rich, intellectual and/or influential Jews were sent.  Supposedly to received favored treatment.  Over 155,000 Jews came through with 55,000 packed into Theresienstadt at its peak occupation.  But 90% of them including 15,000 children perished there or in death camps where they were sent.  In June 1944, Hitler permitted the International Red Cross to make a highly publicized inspection of Theresienstadt to show that the Hews in occupied Europe were being well treated.  This farce inspection laster for six hours after which the inspectors issued a report praising the "humane" condition there.  They had been tricked by the infamous "Theresienstadt Beautification Project" detailed in the PBS Special "War and Remembrance."

In these dorms, there would be 65 people to a room and they had bunk beds that slept 3 on each level of the bed.

For those who perished at the camp, their bodies were disposed of in the crematorium.

There was also the "Small Fortress" at Theresienstadt.  Here we found mass graves, execution sites and cells.

65 people would sleep in this room standing up.  It is incredibly small.

The picture above this one reflects the bathrooms at the fort.  This bathroom was built to show the Red Cross inspectors.

There are 25 miles of tunnels under the fort and town.

We were off to Berlin and arrived at our hotel.  Our room is just incredible!  Here are a few pictures.

Berlin is the huge capital of a re-unified Germany.  From its medieval origins as an island settlement in the River Spree to it emergence as the center of a decadent avant-garde, Berlin became the price of Europe. Then came the defeat of WWI, economic devastation, political upheaval and a plunge into darness with the rise of the Nazis and WWII.  Berlin suffered near total destruction from relentless bombings and then came Berlin's capture by the Russian Army at the end of WWII.  Divided into East and West Sectors and occupied by the conquering Allied powers, Berlin became "ground Zero" for the Cold War.  When 3 million East Berliners fled West by 1961, the infamous Berlin Wall went up and it separated not only the city but the free and communist worlds.

Today we had a Nazi Era walking tour of where the Third Reich had buildings and saw where the Fuhrer Bunker Site was (which is now a parking lot).  We also saw the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe which is 2711 concrete blocks (very impressive as you walk through it).

Since every building was destroyed, everything is new .

Now, we are caught up and we are going outside to play.

Jack and Nancy